Santa Teresa is one of those “secret” towns you hear about where curious people looking for a laid back life backpacked to and never left. Surfers make annual pilgrimages to ride the waves and yogis start studios and preach the pura vida lifestyle. Retreats become more common, and then so does the tourist. Travelers slightly more adventurous than most come and start spouting off on how this is the most perfect place. A luxury resort pop up, Tom Brady and Gisele build a house here, and then I show up and write a travel guide about it. Please don’t get the wrong idea though, I don’t actually WANT you to go here. Frankly, I would like less people to visit Santa Teresa. Since no one looks at this page except people I know promise that if you ever visit you won’t recommend it to anyone else. We need to keep Santa Teresa to ourselves.

The comforting part of writing this guide is that it takes a while to get there, no matter which mode of transportation you choose so that deters a lot of potential visitors for that merit alone. Getting to Santa Teresa involves an international flight to San Jose, then either a puddle jumper flight or a bus-ferry-bus combo, or a looooong car ride. Taking a flight involves walking over to a separate airport and taking a small (10 seat) airplane to Tambor (a single runway that ends in the ocean), and then a 45 minute drive on some of the worst roads you’ve ever seen. I get terribly car sick every time I go to or from Tambor. One time our taxi drove through a river. Another time I unknowingly traveled during Holy Week and all of the mini planes were booked so I had to charter an even mini-er plane (4 seats, including the pilot) to get back to San Jose. Once you’ve figured out transportation and you’re there though - paradise.

Santa Teresa is thriving as a beach town catering to the more casual and easy going traveler. There are no all-inclusive resorts, brand name hotels, or familiar restaurants. There is a long road that winds along the coast with side streets jutting off and up the mountain. Sodas, restaurants, hostels, small hotels, yoga studios, and shops line the corridor. Monkeys screech and howl from power lines. The locals, affectionately called Ticos, are kind and reserved. Stray dogs are everywhere.

There is a lot to do in Santa Teresa proper but the more adventurous traveler will get the most out of their trip by seeing more of the Nicoya Peninsula and the Puntarenas region. You can venture off the main roads to find secluded beaches to swim, sunbathe, or beach comb. Montezuma is another popular town and makes for a good day trip. Make a pit stop at some bars or sodas you see along the way and get comfortable in the Tico towns. Or just sit by the pool or beach all day if you must.

No matter what you do all day watching the sunset in Santa Teresa is a ritual and you should make time for it. There’s something about the sun going down every night that leads people to the beach to watch in appreciation and camaraderie. Personally, I like to grab a couple Imperials, sit on my beach blanket, and coax stray dogs into playing with me. Others make their way to one of the few restaurants or bars on the beach to wind down with cocktails. Make sure to plan your day around the sunset and you’ll be golden.

Stay

Where you stay in Santa Teresa depends on what vibe you want and how much you want to spend. You can find everything from cheap backpacker and surfer hostels to super high end casitas on the beach to AirBnb treehouses. I recommend looking at many places online and booking early. I can recommend both places I’ve stayed but there are so many others.

Casa Marbella - Small hotel on a hill with awesome owners. Super casual and a good spot to grab a beer from the fridge, sit at the small pool, chat with the other guests, and hang. Very close to the center of town. The larger suites are really pretty so it’s also a good place to come with a bigger group.

Latitude 10 - About 5-6 open-air casitas on this property. Super close to the ocean. Gigantic outdoor bathrooms. Decent pool. Really good food. It’s outside of town so if you’re looking for uber romantic or super chill and secluded spot, this is it. They also have a small room with outdoor bathroom connected to the main building which is a more affordable way to enjoy the resort. I booked this room and asked about potential upgrades when I arrived because I knew a casita was open. They offered the casita for a bit more a night and I got a great deal.

Eat

A Soda - Sodas, or Sodas Tipicas are the name for casual Costa Rican restaurants where they serve a typical menu. A traditonal or typical plate has rice, beans, tostones, and meat. Sodas are filled with locals and a great place to have a casual and cheap meal.

Fishbar - Good seafood spot. Our server seemed to remember us from the previous year, which was wild. I love the seared tuna. Everything is good here although it is a bit more pricey than most places.

Taco Corner - Casual taco spot. Great tacos and super chill atmosphere.

The Bakery - Cute place for breakfast or brunch. Can get long wait times.

Koji - Japanese spot with sushi and outdoor seating.

Brisas del Mar - Hidden high up on a hill. Good place for brunch after yoga at Horizon (just below it). Never seen it crowded since it’s off the beaten path.

Katana - Sushi spot with lots of outdoor seating. Cool atmosphere. A little pricey.

Zwart Cafe - Cool cafe with tons of art, a gallery, and an attached studio.

Restaurante Al Chile Viola - Highly recommended by our hotel owners as their favorite ST restaurant and it didn’t disappoint. Great italian. I remember the carpaccio was fab.

Latitude 10 or Florblanca - If you’re looking for an upscale meal in a fancy hotel, these are your spots. I’ve personally eaten at both and they were wonderful. I would call ahead for each.

Drink

Nativo Sports Bar - A standard sports bar but with less walls. A few tvs, super cold beer, and in a very central location.

Banana Beach - A popular place for drinks to watch the sunset and listen to live music. They are also a hotel and restaurant.

Habanero - A popular place for dinner and drinks to watch the sunset.

Tipsy - Small wine bar with outdoor seating and occasional live music.

Rocamar - Super casual, totally outdoor beach spot. Good place to get drinks and watch the sunset. They have a big fire pit and entertainment on Sunday nights.

Salon el Higueron (Cabuya) - This used to be a super run down bar outside on the way between Santa Teresa and Montezuma that we loved to go into. They’ve updated a lot and it’s a lot nicer. Good chicharrons.

La Selva Cerveza Artesanal (Cabuya) - Local Costa Rican beer. I haven’t been here but it seems like they finally opened their brewery, or at least a tasting room.

Butterfly Brewery (Montezuma) - At the same site as a Butterfly Garden and a restaurant called Clandestina. Cold beers overlooking the gardens. Off the beaten path and a great stop after the waterfalls. You may be able to hike to it from the waterfalls but I’m not 100% sure.

Que Mae Brewery (Manzanillo) - Very, very off the beaten path and you will probably be the only person here. Really chill owner, good beer, and a good resting spot on your ATV adventures.

Do

Rent an ATV - I highly suggest renting an ATV for at least part of the time you’ll be in Santa Teresa. This will make getting to Montezuma, secret beaches, and exploring far easier. I recommend asking the ATV place to draw a route for you to get to Montezuma and star some places on a map for you.

Secret Beaches - While exploring on your ATV you’ll see little alcoves where you can stop and see the beach. There is usually no one on them and you can have the spot to yourself. It’s serene and beautiful.

Other Beaches - Santa Teresa’s beach is huge and you really never have to leave, but you should go check out some other spots if you have an ATV. Playa Manzanillo is small and really picturesque. Playa Hermosa has big waves and lots of people picnicing. This is also the beach closest to Gisele’s house, so you might see her surfing or Tony Romo doing whatever he does all day.

Surf - Santa Teresa has always been a surfing town and still retains this culture although I have never really seen any great waves when I’ve been there in March. Playa Hermosa seemed to have more surfers than Santa Teresa. We used Santeria Surf Store to rent boards but there are a lot of places to do so and there are endless options for surf lessons.

Yoga - Along with a strong surfing culture is a strong yoga culture. Tons of places offer classes. One of my favorite spots is the studio at Hotel Horizon. It’s perched above the town and trees overlooking the ocean. They have a good juice bar and breakfast to hit after class.

Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve - You can do quite a long hike here to a very deserted beach at the end. You should run into some wildlife if you know where to look. There are a few different entrances but I believe the most popular entrance is in Cabuya.

Playa Cuevas - This is a small beach and rock outcrop at the end of Mal Pais. It’s behind the small marina in town. One time when we went there were thousands of hermit crabs all over the rocks. Check the tides before you go as the rocks could be inaccessible during high tide. You can walk out and across the rocks or relax on the small beach there.

Montezuma Waterfall Hike - This hike can be as hard and as adventurous as you want to make it. There are 3 waterfalls that you can access 2 different ways. Most everyone enters through the same spot, a small parking spot along the main road. Pay the “parking attendant” a couple bucks and leave your ATV or walk from town. You can pay for a guide here and you’ll likely encounter guides on walk, but you don’t have to as it’s pretty simple to get where you’re going on your own or just by asking people you encounter on your way. The lower waterfall is worth a look and is usually pretty crowded with people lounging, swimming, or jumping off rock outcroppings. If you follow the path up the river you’ll make it there. It’s best to stay on the right hand side of the river. To get up to the other two waterfalls you have to make a choice. You can climb a bunch of steps and pay someone a couple bucks to enter or you can hike what I’ve heard is a pretty treacherous path. Although I’ve seen many people do this hike, and seen them descend the ropes at the waterfall, I’ve never done this way. The entrance to that hike is somewhere at the base of the first waterfall. The maintained and in my eyes, more safe way to get to the other waterfalls is across the river. When you’re walking up the river, I believe right after you walk over the rope, you will see more ropes fastened to the rocks across the water. That’s the start of the maintained path. You’ll walk up a ton of steps and reach the beginning of a ropes course which is where you’ll pay the attendant a couple pesos. The waterfall is just a minute or two away. This spot is far less crowded but still has people jumping off the third waterfall into a good sized swimming hole. Very occasionally you’ll see a local or someone ridiculously adventurous jump from here into the second waterfall, which is below you. This is an insane fall and people absolutely die doing this. Don’t even think about doing it and honestly, I hope no one does it while you’re there either because it’s pretty stressful to watch. I do think there is a way to access the third waterfall from the area where Clandestina/Butterfly Brewery is, but I’m not entirely sure. This would probably be the absolute easiest way to get to the third waterfall as you’re already up high. Bring sneakers for the hike, a bathing suit to jump in or swim, and a towel to sit on.

Bring

Stainless steel straws - If you’re like me and can’t stand paper straws, bring your own because paper straws are very, very popular here.

Koozies - It’s hot. You want your beer to stay cold.

Bandanas - If you rent ATVs you’ll want to cover your mouth and nose from all of the dust and dirt. It’s always been really bad in March but might be less dusty earlier in the year as the rainy season ends around mid-November. Either way I’m sure you’ll get dirtier than you thought you would get.

Sneakers - If you want to hike the waterfalls in Montezuma or get a little lost on trails somewhere you’ll want some traction, tread, and foot protection.

Bug spray - I never had much of an issue but I’ve heard it can get buggy after the rainy season.

The Look

Beachy - but like, real beach, not all-inclusive touristy beach. Relaxed and cool. Swimsuits. Flip flops. Rash guards. Shorts and tanks. Yoga gear. Flowy dresses. No hair products or curling irons, go natural. Snap-backs. Sunglasses.