Mexico City Guide
/Shop for a trip to Mexico City with these suggestions:
I LOVE Mexico City. It’s one of my favorite cities I’ve ever travelled to and I ended up going twice in one year because my desire to go back was so strong. This city is brimming with all of my favorite things - delicious food, bright art, interesting architecture, strong culture, loud music, assaulting color, and so much vibrancy. I fall in love on every street corner.
The food in CDMX is out of this world. Everything is fresh, affordable, and tasty. I have no qualms in saying that the street food is even better than the established restaurants. The best thing I ate was a milanese chilaquile torta smothered in salsa verde and crema that dripped all over me after I waited thirty minutes in line for it on a street corner. I think it cost $2USD. Hell, you can eat a full pre fixe tasting menu at some of the world’s best restaurants (Pujol, Quintonil) for a fraction of what it would cost in the states. No matter where you go to eat you will not be disappointed but I find myself most content eating on the street corners and wherever I see a gathering of locals.
While you’re walking to your next street stand for a taco or quesadilla make sure to appreciate all of the greenery and architecture around you. The big industrial windows in Condesa and Roma Norte are surrounded by plants, both inside and out. Ivy creeps up the brightly painted walls of colonial buildings with ornate iron work around the windows and doors. My favorite, the modern houses a la Luis Barragan have rows of tall, straight cactuses along their walls and roofs that look like natural fencing that no person or animal would want to touch. More inviting is one of the greenest spots in the city which lies in the center of what used to be an old racetrack. Parque Mexico is not only a great place to sit, relax, and people watch, but I used it as my center point for both of my trips.
I stayed in Condesa both times I have visited and spent a good amount of time in Roma Norte as well. There are other good neighborhoods to stay but since a majority of the things I wanted to do were in this area I chose Condesa and by default Parque Mexico as my home base. Getting around is easiest by walking in these neighborhoods. If you’re venturing out you can call an Uber but make sure to give yourself ample amount of travel time. Traffic in CDMX is unpredictable, often heavy, and quite anxiety inducing. Ask someone about your routes or the neighborhoods if you’re planning to walk a lot. Although I never felt unsafe while I was there I was warned of a few different neighborhoods (the area around the Arena, north of Plaza Garibaldi, etc) where I shouldn’t walk at night. There are some corners and areas that have a constant heavy police presence which could make you feel more or less unsafe, depending on the way you want to think about it. There is crime and corruption in Mexico City, just like any other city. Be mindful and street smart here just like you would anywhere else.
There is so much to do in Mexico City but you would be remiss not to venture out from the downtown just a bit. Coyoacan is a lovely town about 20-30 minutes away and the former home of Frida Kahlo. The bright blue house in which she grew up and then returned back to with Diego Rivera is now a museum honoring her life. Her ashes remain in the bedroom where she laid supine and crippled with life long pain, painting on a mirror suspended above her and where she ultimately died. It’s a moving place to visit and one you should plan in advance for as tickets sell out quickly. Before or after your visit here you should walk around the town and stop by the markets as there is both a food focused and arts focused market here to satisfy anyone’s needs. A little further outside of the city are two more very popular attractions in Teotihuacan and Xochimilco. Teotihuacan is the spot for ancient ruins and pyramids and is a busy historical day trip. Xochimilco is the area of the hanging gardens where people can rent boats and float on the winding canals. It’s colorful and filled with roving boats of mariachi bands and vendors selling food and drinks. I’ve kept myself so busy downtown that I haven’t even been able to experience Teotihuacan or Xochimilco quite yet. I’ve barely scratched the surface of what there is to do so naturally, I’ll just have to go back again!
Stay
There are a lot of up and coming neighborhoods in CDMX but I can personally suggest and recommend Condesa and Roma. Polanco is a bit too modern and clean cut for me, but if you’re a little bougie and are planning on eating primarily at places such as Pujol and Quintonil, then this is probably the hood for you. Juarez is right next to Condesa and Roma and has some great looking AirBnbs for a bit lower prices. Coyoacan is outside of the downtown area and is the birthplace (and final resting spot) of Frida Kahlo and an absolutely beautiful town. I would highly recommend staying here if you will be in CDMX for a few days and would like to appreciate a smaller, quieter neighborhood.
While there are many highly recommended boutique hotels in these areas I’ve found that they are small and overpriced. I highly suggest AirBnb as you’ll get an entire apartment for a great price.
Eat
Disclaimer: Mexico City has one of the best eating scenes of anywhere I’ve ever visited. You won’t get to half of the places you want to go and shouldn’t limit yourself to only things you find on the must try lists. I’m once again urging you not to take every one of your meals at a fancy sit down restaurant and to get out and eat some street food. Hail down the tamales guy on the bike with the microphone. You’ll hear him coming!
La Esquina de Chilaquil - It’s a must. Google map "La Güera Tortas de Chilaquiles" for location. On the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Av. Tamaulipas. There will absolutely be a line and you have to go early-ish as they sell out by early afternoon. Incredible chilaquile tortas. Choice of shredded chicken or milanese and either red or green chilaquiles. I went milanese and verde chilaquiles with whatever else they put on top and it was hands down the best thing I ate in CDMX. (Did this on both trips, was not disappointed!)
Jenny’s Street Quesadillas - Exactly what is says. Quesadillas on the street. Get one of the women’s attention, order something to go in your quesadilla, wait a couple minutes for them to hand it to you, devour, order another one (probably), and pay afterwards. So good.
Meroma - Higher end but very affordable. Good pastas. On the same block as MAIA Gallery and Blanco Colima. Good but I would prioritize somewhere else before this.
Lardo - Trendy spot for coffee and pastries in the AM. They bring over the whole pastry plate and let you pick from it. Cute, well designed, quick stop. Love trying the pastries, fresh juice and coffee. Have been here MANY times.
Contramar (or Entremar, their sister restaurant that has the same menu) - Seafood focused. Awesome ceviche. Large and busy, make reservations. Supposedly the thing to order is the full fish with red and green sauce but I couldn't talk my friend into it. I saw it and it looked so delicious.
Churrería El Moro - Chain churros spot with trendy aesthetics (painted tiles). The churros were pretty damn good. I think the caramel dip is my fav but you have to try chocolate.
El Califa - Decent tacos and late night eats. Also next to El Farolito, a similar spot. So would be easy to hit both for a mini taco tour.
El Tizoncito - Claims to be the first tacos al pastor spot. They are super small, but very good. So you can order a few if you're pretty hungry. They give you a salsa tour with a bunch of different dips and salsas on it when you sit. Seems a little like a chain but it was good.
Hotel Carlota - Good food. Cool semi-al fresco dining inside a hip hotel.
Parking garage rooftop bar - Of course I can't find the name of this place. We also couldn't find it forever because it's on top of a parking garage and you have to walk down the garage to get in. We also couldn't get inside without a reservation but some nice guy behind us brought us in with him. Worth it if you can figure out where this place is and make a reservation. I heard they don't want a ton of foreigners but oh well, we got in. It was super scene-y and cool. It’s next to a rec center with a pool in it and I think it was next to the Av. Paseo de la Reforma. Good luck!
Quintonil - Rated one of the best restaurants in the world a few years in a row. You get one of the best tasting menus in the world for a fraction of the price of one in the states. Glad I hit it but don't need to go back unless it was a special occasion.
Mercado Roma - Cute mini-food hall. There is a Churrería El Moro (churros) spot here. Quite a few different, interesting stalls.
Hotel Condesa df - Super trendy hotel with lobby bar and restaurant upstairs. Was woefully unimpressed with the service here. It was painful. Decent food but doubt I would come back unless I was craving sushi.
Ojo de Aqua - A small juice bar on the right, a sit down cafe on the left. Healthy options and lots of fresh fruit and juice.
Places I did not go but were recommended to me:
Lalo! - Highly recommended by many, especially for breakfast/brunch.
Pujol - A must. Good luck with reservations. We did not have luck with the waitlists. Although I have heard mixed reviews. The taco tasting seems to also be paired with a drink per course so I think you would probably leave drunk.
Rosetta - Upscale Italian, very highly recommended, same chef as Lardo and Panaderia Rosetta
Panaderia Rosetta - Cafe, bakery
Cicatriz Cafe - Trendy cafe, natural wine and cocktails
Taqueria Los Cocuyos - Very popular taco stand
Fonda Mayora - Mexican
Parián Condesa Rest Comida - Modern
Tacos Los Gueros - Tacos, a couple locations, open late
El Vilsito - Auto body shop during the day, some of the best tacos al pastor at night
Tacqueria El Greco - Tiny taco joint, uses pita bread as taco shells
El Pescadito Roma - Seafood
El Hidalguense - Mexican
Dulceria de Celaya - Old school Mexican sweets
Torteria Colima - Mexican, the restaurant in front of Jenny’s Street Quesadillas
Havre 77 - French
Maximo Bistrot - French Mexican
Eno Petrarca - Mexican
Chiquitito Cafe - Coffee, cafe
Loose Blues - Hybrid restaurant, clothing, art, and record store
Maque - Bakery
Coyoacan:
Quesadillas Lucha (Coyoacan) - A counter in the Coyoacan market. Awesome tacos. Filled with locals.
San Angel Inn (Near Coyoacan) - A little overrated in my opinion but sitting outside after a whirlwind Coyoacan tour was nice. Supposedly the chicken tortilla soup is incredible but you can only order at the fancier sit down area inside. They're also known for margaritas (maybe a claim for first ever?) and they were good.
Hêrmann-Thômas Coffee Masters (Coyoacan) - A really nice coffee shop in Coyoacan where we hung out after the Frida Kahlo Museum and Coyoacan Market.
Drink
Licorera Limantour - I went to the one in Roma. There is another in Polanco. One of the "World's Best Bars". Seemed like a typical high end NYC mixologist kind of bar. I am also a bit salty because they randomly took us to the upstairs area where there was a "Miracle" Christmas bar pop up.
Blanco Colima - Very cool old mansion. Trendy and upscale spot for drinks with a few different rooms and a killer open air space in the middle. We were brought here for mezcal tasting after our street art tour. On the same block as Meroma and MAIA Gallery. Went back for drinks on my second trip and enjoyed it. Think it turns clubby late night but not sure. Very good spot for a day drink.
Jules Basement
La Clandestina
Buna 42 - coffee
Hanky Panky Bar
El Balcón del Zócalo - good views of the main square in the historic section
Xaman Bar
Fifty Mils
Tokyo Music Bar
Baltra Bar
Do
Luis Barragan House - Former home and studio of Pritzker-Prize winning architect Luis Barragan. Insane architecture, colors, fountains, pools etc. Instagram dream. He has a few places you can visit but you must make reservations for tickets in advance.
MAIA Contemporary Gallery - Small contemporary art gallery in Roma that is associated with a lot of street art. They were hosting a great neon art exhibit while I was there. Great to pop in if you're close by.
La Ciudadela - The best market for souvenirs. Big and broad. The most unique thing I bought were hand blown cocktail stirrers. They had thousands of styles and sizes. I regret not going to this market sooner in my trip.
Museo Franz Mayer - Mexican arts in a very historic building.
Museo Jumex - CDMX's verison of a MOMA for art and photography.
Museo Soumaya - Directly next to Museo Jumex, free to enter. Supposedly has a lot of Dalí and Rodin.
Plaza Garibaldi - Mariachi band plaza. Supposedly there are tons the gather and play every night. Was recommended multiple times to take an Uber here as the surrounding neighborhood was rough
Templo Mayer - Ruins. historic, open 9-5. Centerpiece of Tenochtitlan, the ancient Aztec capital. Built in 1325 in the marshes of Lake Tezcoco
Palacio Nacional - Govt building which is home to Diego Rivera's famous mural "The History of Mexico" which showcases the history of the nation
Parque México - Great park that was formed in the center of an old horse track. Surrounded by the pretty buildings of Condesa. Tons of people hang out here. Huge dog park and often a lot of adoption agencies with dogs out so needless to say, dog heaven. I have hung out here a bunch and love it.
Parque Juan Rulfo - I think this is the right spot...It's between a small food market on your way between Condesa and Roma, and on the other side is a small flea market with more authentic stands that the bigger touristy markets. The food market seemed like it was there every day, but I only saw the flea market on the weekend.
Lucha Libre - Classic masked Mexican wrestling. Super kitschy. Main night is Friday but there are other shows. I never did learn the best way to buy tix. There are some at the gate but it has the potential to sell out. No bags allowed inside, take Ubers as the surrounding neighborhood is rough. Supposedly not much food inside. Gigantic beers.
Plaza de Constitution - Huge plaza where many people gather.
Torre Latinoamericana - Tallest building in the city with 360-degree views
Outside of CDMX proper:
Teotihuacan - Ancient pyramids in the Valley of Mexico. It’s a day trip and you should leave early AM to be back in the city by midday. It also gets very hot so going in the morning is preferred. Wear sensible shoes and clothes as you could be doing a bit of climbing up the ruins.
Frida Kahlo Museum aka Casa Azul (Coyoacan)- Buy tix in advance!! Incredibly moving for Frida Kahlo fans. Her ashes are on display in her bedroom which is where she passed away. Gorgeous architecture and gardens.
Coyoacan Market (Coyoacan) - Incredible food market. Lots of counters to eat at.
Experimental Ceramics workshop (Coyoacan) - Well known ceramics shop that supplies a lot of NYC restaurants. Good place to buy interesting pieces.
Mexican Craft Market (Coyoacan) - In Coyoacan across from the park. It was okay. Definitely worth a browse through.
Deigo and Frida Museum and Studio (San Angel) - Gorgeous architecture. Mostly art from other artists. A little out of the way. Unless I had a lot of free time I wouldn't make this a must-do.
Xochimilco - 40 mins south of city. Hanging gardens boat ride, was told to eat at Casa Badiano de la Cruz, supposedly A LOT of fun.
Museo Dolores Olmedo - Near Xochimilco. Largest collection of Frida Kahlo and Diego Luna pieces.
Street Art Tour - https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/198969?location=Mexico%20City%2C%20Mexico&source=p2¤tTab=experience_tab&searchId=74118a20-33bf-464d-a34e-e93aa29af940&federatedSearchId=406843e0-2f85-460e-9066-c8540f2bf095§ionId=bb5709d8-4359-4e82-bf87-d19a90302642
The Look
City smart. Dress for the neighborhood or the activity. Condesa and Roma Norte are artsy and trendy. Polanco is kind of business casual and upscale. Most other areas are typical city dress. Men almost always wear pants. Women are are relatively modest but do wear tight clothing.
Here's an idea of what to buy and pack for Mexico City:
