San Juan, Puerto Rico Travel Guide

Puerto Rico has had its fair share of bad PR (no pun intended) in the past couple of years. Between the one-two punch of Hurricane Irma and Hurricane Maria and then the recent earthquakes, I’ve encountered a lot of questions regarding Puerto Rico’s readiness for visitors and capability for hospitality. I drove around the entire island, literally from tip to tip, and the while there is still visible damage from the hurricanes, it’s not going to affect your trip. The earthquakes, while they are still active, are near Guanica which is in the south west portion of the island and does not have a heavy tourist presence. Let me be the umpteenth person to tell you - Puerto Rico is ready for you!

San Juan is the capital of Puerto Rico, the most populous city, and has something for everyone. The old, walled city filled with brightly painted Spanish Colonial architecture is aptly named Old San Juan and you can spend a day walking its cobblestone streets and exploring historic fortresses. Condado is a beachside strip of high rises housing luxury hotels, restaurants, clubs, and shopping. Santurce is a large area filled with smaller neighborhoods, each with their own vibes, but is considered a more local feel and an up-and-coming area.

I spent a large majority of my time in San Juan exploring the Santurce neighborhoods. I stayed in Ocean Park, a beautiful gated community of beautiful homes with a semi-private beach where you can watch windsurfers glide through the air. I wandered down Calle Loiza and Calle Cerra checking out street art, murals, and little shops. I bar hopped on Calle Canals near La Placita where all of the locals gather on the weekends. Exploring areas outside of the typical tourist spots is how I like to spend most of my time so if you’re ready to walk outside of the walled city of Old San Juan (you really should) then read on.

Stay:

Old San Juan - The beautiful walled city where most of the tourist spots will be. Personally I think it’s great to visit this area, but I would be more apt to stay outside of it, especially if you’ll be going to the beach often as beach accessibility is limited here.

Condado - This area reminds me of Miami. Tall buildings, luxury hotels, restaurants, and shops. Stay here if you don’t want the fuss of walking very far or exploring much. Everything is at your fingertips here - beach included.

Santurce - A local experience and no-frills neighborhood. Tons of restaurants and bars and streets to wander. Ocean Park is the nicest area in Santurce and the following spots are in/close by:

The Dreamcatcher - This is a boutique hotel inside the gated community of Ocean Park and seems made up of a few different buildings with beautiful courtyards entwining them. Every room is unique and has its own special touches. There are great common areas, yoga on the beach, a beautiful restaurant, beach supplies, and a general feeling of calm and serenity here. It’s in an incredibly walkable area, a block to the beach and a few blocks from Calle Loiza to hit any kind of food you might be looking for. They’re very vegetarian and vegan friendly and offer an incredibly detailed map of other spots in Santurce, including highlighting the ones that are veggie friendly.

Tropical Guest House - This is a small, modern, boutique hotel a block from the beach right outside of Ocean Park. The rooms are big and the bathrooms are even bigger. They offer a welcome drink at the lovely bar and restaurant and ridiculously good cookies too. They have beach supplies available and they’re in walking distances to a ton of great restaurants and bars.

Eat:

Caficultura - Breakfast, brunch, and coffee all day.

La Penultima - Casual spot with elevated bar bites such as a fried chicken sandwich, cauliflower wings, pork belly bao, and disco fries. Picnic tables outside and good drinks.

Kasalta - This spot is like a Puerto Rican deli. One counter has sandwiches and hot soups and another counter does pastries and coffee. All of the locals get soup, and the Sancocho doesn’t disappoint. It’s like a Puerto Rican version of Dinty Moore Beet Stew. The cuban is a classic choice.

Lote 23 - A food truck area (gastronomic park) with a few great vendors. Everyone talks about the guy slinging pork.

Cocina Abierta - A cool, small spot for a great meal that is globally influenced with great wine pairings.

Cafe Regina - Very small cafe with outdoor seating. Fabulous toasts and brunch bites with coffee, juice, and tea. One of my favorites.

Vianda - Beautiful, well regarded restaurant with big open windows looking a few blocks from La Placita. Pro tip: you can get half portions of the appetizers so you can try more dishes.

Marmalade - Upscale, tasting menu restaurant which I heard many refer to as the best restaurant in San Juan. 

Jose Enrique - San Juan’s most celebrated and well known chef. An upscale spot for Puerto Rican cuisine.

Santaella - Upscale, elegant Puerto Rican food in a trendy spot with good cocktails near La Placita.

Sabrina - A pretty spot on Calle Loiza that has a good brunch and occasional live music.

Spiga - An unassuming cafe with great food and bread in Old San Juan.

Bottega - Wine bar with tapas on Calle Loiza.

Pinky’s Bar - Bustling cafe for breakfast and brunch on Calle Loiza.

Juaja - Arepas and Peruvian inspired food in a small, semi-outdoor food truck spot on Calle Loiza.

Cafe TinTan - Newer spot for cafe bites and brunch on Calle Loiza.

Drink:

La Factoria - One of the World’s 50 Best Bars. There are a few different rooms (I think 5) with a different menu in each. Of course you can get a normal cocktail, wine, or beer here but that kind of defeats the fun. Lots of tourists but the bartenders are still welcoming, thoughtful, and like to make custom creations.

El Batey - Classic dive bar with writing all over the walls and ceiling. Dimly lit and serving cheap drinks like all good dive bars must.

La Penultima - A little divey, a little bit hipster, cool spot with an outdoor patio. Great cocktails and bar bites. The carbonated negroni piqued my interest.

La Coctelera - More of a cool cocktail bar on Calle Loiza with lots of homemade ingredients but they have a menu full of interesting food as well.

El Tap - A hybrid brewery/bar with a bunch of Puerto Rico and beyond beers and even some housemade sangrias.

La Taberna Lupulo - A cool tap room with a ton of local beers and small bites.

Jungle Bird - A tiki bar serving Caribbean drinks and fare with low lounge seats, pink neon, and palm aesthetic. Fun spot to grab a drink if you’re in La Placita.

La Placita - this is an area, not a bar. It’s the spot where all of the locals gather on Thursday-Saturday nights to get together and go out. There are many bars around this area to hop into.

Hacienda San Pedro - A coffee shop in Santurce that sources its beans from their close by farm.

Do:

Castillo San Felipe del Morro - This old citadel was built between the 16th and 18th centuries as a fortress to protect the city from attacks. Walking around the grounds both inside and outside of the walls is impressive. Inside the walls gives you incredible ocean views and an intimate look at the architecture of the building. The grounds outside are a great spot to lounge on the grass, watch the sun set, and fly a kite. A ticket to the Castillo San Felipe del Morro will also get you access to Castillo San Cristobal if you’re a history buff.

La Placita Bar Hopping - During the day it’s a bustling market. At night, especially on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday it’s the epicenter of nightlife in San Juan. This is the spot where the locals gather to go out to the bars, listen to music, and get lively.

Go to the beach - San Juan is bordered by the Atlantic Ocean and you should absolutely take advantage of the nice weather and access to the beach while you’re here. Many hotels and AirBnbs offer beach towels or other beach accessories. The wind around San Juan can be really strong so you’ll often see a lot of windsurfers and little sail boats whipping around in the ocean while you lounge. 

El Yunque National Forest - This is the only tropical rainforest in the US National Parks System. It’s about 45 minutes from San Juan and there are many tours you can get that will take you out there. Renting a car and making this drive yourself is also incredibly easy. There are beautiful waterfalls to see and many are very easily accessible from the road. Some of the trails are still closed since the Hurricanes, so if you’re looking to hike make sure to check openings before you go. There’s a very busy strip of bars on the beach on the way to/from El Yunque so make sure to stop and enjoy if you have a designated driver.

Santurce Art Tour - You don’t need to book a guided tour to do this, although you can if you like the structure and having a guide. Simply find your way to Calle Cerra and walk along it and you will see tons of murals and street art. The movement began with an art festival called Santurce es Ley (Santurce is Law) and has grown exponentially since then. Tons of young professionals start coming out to the bars in this area after work for happy hour.

Art Museums - If you like to look at art in the confines of art conditioning then there are a few art museums in San Juan such as the Contemporary Art Museum, Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico, Museum of Art and History, and MADMi.

Casa Bacardi - You can take a ferry from Old San Juan to the Bacardi Factory and there are quite a few different types of tours to experience for the rum lovers among us.

Shop:

Ole - You can customize your own Panama hat here. They’re pretty affordable as far as custom hats go.

El Galpon - A slightly more expensive hat store but with a ton of variety.

Concalma - Unique, handmade fabric bags in all types of styles, colors, and patterns.

Pure Soul - Flowy, linen clothes for those hot PR days.

Marisel Herbal Bath and Body - An all natural, handmade skincare and beauty store with great soaps, body scrubs, and even natural bug repellent and sunscreen.

Cigar House - A great stop for cigar lovers to hang out, have a smoke or drink and check out their gigantic humidor.

Gemileo - More smudge sticks and incense than I’ve seen anywhere else.

Tres Palmas - A trendy surf shop with a few locations.

Vintage - Vice Versa and ElectroShock Vintage both have a great selection of clothing. Vice Versa has the largest amount of vintage luxury shoes I’ve ever seen.

Calle Loiza - Walking along Calle Loiza you will see a ton of boutique shops to pop into.

The Look:

City cool but trying to literally stay cool. Loose, breathable, and light. Super bright and tropical is okay, but you will likely stand out a little as locals aren’t dressed like they live at the beach. All of the coastal essentials - suits, sandals, sunnies, and sunscreen required.

Vieques Travel Guide

Vieques is the vibrant green of all of the plants, the bright pink of the flowers, the sparse street art, the colored buildings, and the constant fear of the wild horses running in front of my Jeep as I roll through single lane roads on my way to the next beach or snorkel spot. I pick up the bones from sea urchins on the shoreline and listen to the trance of the palms blowing in the wind. The beaches are completely different from one to the next and finding your favorite is a serious endeavor. I start every morning with yoga and sound baths at La Finca Victoria and end every night in awe of the amount of stars in the sky. Vieques is beautiful, but it must be acknowledged that it’s an island borne out of hardship.

Vieques is going through it’s second rebirth - once after the Navy left and now rebuilding after Hurricane Maria. The US Navy used each end of Vieques as training grounds for bombing, shooting, and disposing of waste until 2003 after the island fought back to regain control of their land. Not only is some of the island still closed to the public because of the risk of live munitions, there is even a report 27% higher risk of cancer for Viequenese than those in mainland Puerto Rico, assumedly from the high amount of contaminants that they were exposed to. As with the rest of Puerto Rico, Vieques was devastated during Hurricane Maria and driving around you can still see the effects of the storm on infrastructure 2 years later. After the storm every leaf on the island was blown away but now even the 400 year old Cieba tree is back to blooming. They’re still without a hospital or medical facility since Maria and after the unfortunate death of a teen complaining of flu-like symptoms they’re garnering more public outrage in their fight for healthcare on the island. All of this just proves the resilience of the island, and it’s people, and it’s impossible not to be taken aback by their strength and appreciate all of it even more.

The people, fauna, and spirits of the island are thriving despite the struggle and I feel lucky to bear witness to it when I’m there. It’s wild and beautiful and a place where the growth and energy around you is infectious. Vieques should be both a pitstop on a Puerto Rican trip and a destination unto itself.

Getting There and Around

Flying: Flights from San Juan to Vieques are about 25-30 mins long in a 10 seater plane and cost around $80-140 depending on the season and the airport. You can depart from either the San Juan International Airport or Isla Grande Regional Airport. While SJU is convenient if you’re arriving or departing and trying to align connections, I would actually recommend flying out of Isla Grande as it’s closer to the center of the city, little to no hassle or check-in time, and about 2x cheaper. AirLink Vieques and Seaborne are the two main airlines that fly this route and are codeshare partners. You can also fly from Ceiba to Vieques which is about $40 one way and a 10 min flight but that would only make sense if you were already out and about in Puerto Rico with a car.

Ferry: There is a ferry service from the town of Ceiba to Vieques that runs a few times a day. The ride is about 45 mins and costs only $2. Getting a ticket and getting onto the ferry during the high season (Nov-March) is reportedly difficult and the advice I’ve heard is to book a ticket in advance. If you’re unable to get a ticket in advance make sure you’re at the ferry terminal early. The ferry is large and I didn’t experience any issues with either of my passages but I’ve heard many others have had more volatile rides depending on waves, storms, and swells. If you’re driving to Ceiba there is a parking lot available for parking your car as it’s HIGHLY unrecommended to downright prohibited to attempt to take a vehicle with you as that would expose you to the extremely frustrating and unpredictable cargo ferry situation. Stick with the passenger ferry and either leave your car in the lot (about $12 a day) or take a taxi to Ceiba.

While on the Vieques: I strongly believe you will want a form of transportation to fully enjoy the island. Taxis are fairly easy to obtain from about 8am-10pm but you will need to call ahead or wait for them and they typically cost at least $15 for a ride. If you’re planning to stay put or stay in town you can get away without transportation but I prefer full autonomy and the ability to see everything. There are 3 options to get around Vieques. You can rent a scooter, a golf cart, or a car. A scooter is fun and quick, but you can’t carry bags and you may not feel entirely confident, especially on some of the pot-hole ridden beach roads. A golf cart is fun, slow, and leisurely, but you might regret this choice when you see cars zipping around you and out of sight. I also regretted this during errant rainstorms that seem to pop up. A car is my recommended mode of transportation and most places offer Jeeps. The Jeeps are about $90 a day, but you’ll have music, AC, and speed on your side. It is highly recommended and essentially required to book your mode of transportation well in advance as there is extremely limited inventory to go around.

Stay

La Finca Victoria - This property is incredible. Stunning architecture surrounded by small, edible gardens, and beautifully curated spaces. The property was devastated in Hurricane Maria (like many things) and was taken over by Sylvia DeMarco, a designer and hotelier from the mainland who runs a beautiful property (The Dreamcatcher) in San Juan. Her team has rebuilt La Finca Victoria into an oasis in the middle of this beautiful island. They’ve gotten the rooms up and running and are now expanding out the kitchen and dining area and are adding on a wellness center which will host their daily 7am yoga classes and Ayurvedic treatments. They grow much of the food on-site, which they serve at their vegan breakfasts and the for-purchase snacks which you can pair with well stocked kombucha, beer, and wine. Local coffee, hot tea, and infused water is offered all day long. Each room has a diffuser with homemade oils for day and night. And most importantly, every room has an outdoor shower! La Finca is a bit secluded and right in the middle of the island so it’s highly recommended to have your own transportation. 

Hix Island House - This compound of buildings is located off the same road and technically next to La Finca Victoria. The architecture is both modern and wabi-sabi and an interesting juxtaposition in the middle of the jungle. I love the open-air feeling of the rooms. The pool and lounge area look incredibly inviting.

El Blok - El Blok is a brutalist building at the entrance of Esperanza that you can’t miss. It’s part hotel, part restaurant, part bar. This is a great spot to stay if you want to be in town and close to the beach. The rooms are on the smaller side but they’re well stocked with Aesop products. There is a rooftop lounge with a plunge pool that is guest access only besides Sunday afternoons.

Malecon Beach House - This is a small, pretty boutique hotel in Esperanza.

There are quite a few other small hotels and AirBnbs to choose from too.

Eat

Tin Box - Recently reopened after the hurricane. They host a reggae night on Mondays. They have an interesting menu of BBQ and sushi and everything I ate there was really good. Happy hour from 4-6 with $2 tacos!

El Quenepo (Esperanza) - I would say this is the fanciest restaurant on the island, but I also went in yoga pants, so I’m not sure that is saying much. The food was okay. I think I went on an off night as they’re pretty popular and have a good menu to choose from. Friends really enjoyed it there.

Bananas or Duffy’s (Esperanza) - Both very casual restaurants with a wide menu and good happy hours.

El Callejero (Esperanza) - This is a small food truck on the corner of 996 and 997. It’s run by a couple, he’s a local and they met in Miami. They have been open for a few months serving crazy good tacos, quesadillas, and elotes. 

Food trucks (Esperanza) - On the corner of 996 and 997 there are a smattering of food trucks that pop up. There is a meat focused one, two taco trucks, and a truck with skewers and pastelillos and a seating area. The pastelillos from the big truck with the seating area are crazy good.

Rincon del Sabor - An outdoor area with a food truck. You can pick from a lot of grilled or fried meats or seafood and quite a few sides. The salmon with monfongo or trifongo is SO GOOD. Literally my favorite salmon ever.

Coqui Fire Cafe (Isabel) - A small restaurant in Isabell with a good menu. Get the cuban taco. They have a ton of homemade hot sauces to try and will pick out a few for you based on your preferences.

Rising Roost (Isabel) - A cute cafe with breakfast and brunch and great coffee and juices.

Isla Nena Cafe (Airport) - Yes, the cafe at the airport. Absolutely no-frills but if you’re on the north side of the island and hungry or waiting for a flight this a good spot to grab some quesadillas or a burger. This is also a Green Packers “Lil Backers” bar so if you’re a cheesehead you should stop by for that alone.

Drink

El Blok - They have both a nice bar on the ground floor and a beautiful rooftop bar that is open on Sunday afternoons for the public.

Crab Island Distillery - Off the beaten path past Mosquito Pier. It’s only a minute or so off the main road but it’s a brand new distillery making rum and doing tastings.

Duffy’s - outdoor bar, chill, locals, dog friendly

Banana’s - outdoor bar, chill, extensive drink list

El Sombrero Viejo - wine and liquor store attached

Rising Roost - juices, tea, coffee

Do

Snorkeling (or SCUBA diving) - Mosquito Pier is the easiest spot to explore as you just jump right in and follow the pier and see everything from colorful fish to huge urchins to the occasional sea turtle or ray. About ¾ of the way down the pier there are steps where you can park and easily enter/exit the water. There is usually a scuba flag flying here. Punta Arenas is another good place to go snorkeling. There is a ledge reef that starts about 20 yards from the water line and extends for quite a while. There is really beautiful coral here but I didn’t see nearly as many fish as I did off Mosquito Pier.

Bioluminescent Bay - Vieques has the brightest bioluminescent bay in the world. The dinoflagellate in the water glow when they are agitated by our hands, oars, or kayaks. They briefly emit a bright blue light which is magical to see. On a clear night they mirror the stars in the sky. You can go on a tour in a glass bottom kayak for $50 and it’s a really special experience.

Punta de Tierra/Cayo de Tierra - you can walk to a small island in the south next to Esperanza. There is a loop trail that goes around the island and there is some really incredible beachcombing. Get there in between Sun Bay and Esperanza on a road tagged “Quebrada La Mina” on Google Maps. You can watch people surf the waves in between the islands, about 300 yards off shore.

Puerto Ferro Lighthouse - There is a dilapidated lighthouse, or at least what remains of it, in the Wildlife Refuge. While the lighthouse is really nothing to see the views from this spot are expansive and beautiful and there are some trails that veer off from this area.

Gallery Oro - A small gallery of local and Puerto Rican artists, right next to the entrance to Playa Negra.

Beach Hop - Absolutely the best thing to do while on the island. These are all named beaches but there are plenty of spots just to pull over and have a space for yourself:

  • Playa Negra: Black Sand beach. You will have to walk about 10-15 mins along a dried up river bed to reach this beach, which is black in spots because of the volcanic sediment. It’s beautiful and the surf is usually big.

  • Playa Grande: A big expanse of beach with big surf, rocky sand, and no one in sight.

  • Playa Caracas - A popular beach spot with more people than you will see on others. Pretty calm waves and white sand.

  • Playa la Chiva - A semi-circle of beaches with about 15 pull off points, each with their own picnic table and hut. A good place to post up and have a picnic. The water is usually pretty calm and there can be some snorkeling here depending on conditions.

  • Pata Prieta: You will need to walk through a short trail to the beautiful beach.

  • Playa Sun Bay: This it the large, “public” beach. There are bathrooms on site and wild horses are a common sight. You will see a lot of people here and the waves are moderate.

  • El Gallito: Aka Gringo Beach, close to the airport. Very small and very chill.

  • Playa Bladin: On the left hand side of Mosquito Pier this is an incredibly calm area with shallow water and good shell picking.

  • Punta Arenas: A small beach with great snorkeling.

Bring

Stainless steel straws 

Koozies - It’s hot. You want your beer to stay cold.

Bug spray - The bugs can be bothersome, usually after rain. I mean, there is even a place called Mosquito Bay!!

Snorkel gear - There are so many spots to jump in and explore on your own. It’ll be advantageous to have your own mask and snorkel if you’re adventurous.

Sunscreen - Reef friendly please!

The Look

Casual, relaxed, beachy. You’ll stick out in heels, heavy makeup, or being super put-together. Guys in collared shirts and polo shirts stick out too. Casual dresses and sandals for dinner. Snapbacks and tshirts for men. Workout gear for excursions. Beach coverups for the beach and lunch runs. Think surf style.

Shop The Look here:

Mexico City Guide

Shop for a trip to Mexico City with these suggestions:

I LOVE Mexico City. It’s one of my favorite cities I’ve ever travelled to and I ended up going twice in one year because my desire to go back was so strong. This city is brimming with all of my favorite things - delicious food, bright art, interesting architecture, strong culture, loud music, assaulting color, and so much vibrancy. I fall in love on every street corner.

The food in CDMX is out of this world. Everything is fresh, affordable, and tasty. I have no qualms in saying that the street food is even better than the established restaurants. The best thing I ate was a milanese chilaquile torta smothered in salsa verde and crema that dripped all over me after I waited thirty minutes in line for it on a street corner. I think it cost $2USD. Hell, you can eat a full pre fixe tasting menu at some of the world’s best restaurants (Pujol, Quintonil) for a fraction of what it would cost in the states. No matter where you go to eat you will not be disappointed but I find myself most content eating on the street corners and wherever I see a gathering of locals.

While you’re walking to your next street stand for a taco or quesadilla make sure to appreciate all of the greenery and architecture around you. The big industrial windows in Condesa and Roma Norte are surrounded by plants, both inside and out. Ivy creeps up the brightly painted walls of colonial buildings with ornate iron work around the windows and doors. My favorite, the modern houses a la Luis Barragan have rows of tall, straight cactuses along their walls and roofs that look like natural fencing that no person or animal would want to touch. More inviting is one of the greenest spots in the city which lies in the center of what used to be an old racetrack. Parque Mexico is not only a great place to sit, relax, and people watch, but I used it as my center point for both of my trips.

I stayed in Condesa both times I have visited and spent a good amount of time in Roma Norte as well. There are other good neighborhoods to stay but since a majority of the things I wanted to do were in this area I chose Condesa and by default Parque Mexico as my home base. Getting around is easiest by walking in these neighborhoods. If you’re venturing out you can call an Uber but make sure to give yourself ample amount of travel time. Traffic in CDMX is unpredictable, often heavy, and quite anxiety inducing. Ask someone about your routes or the neighborhoods if you’re planning to walk a lot. Although I never felt unsafe while I was there I was warned of a few different neighborhoods (the area around the Arena, north of Plaza Garibaldi, etc) where I shouldn’t walk at night. There are some corners and areas that have a constant heavy police presence which could make you feel more or less unsafe, depending on the way you want to think about it. There is crime and corruption in Mexico City, just like any other city. Be mindful and street smart here just like you would anywhere else.

There is so much to do in Mexico City but you would be remiss not to venture out from the downtown just a bit. Coyoacan is a lovely town about 20-30 minutes away and the former home of Frida Kahlo. The bright blue house in which she grew up and then returned back to with Diego Rivera is now a museum honoring her life. Her ashes remain in the bedroom where she laid supine and crippled with life long pain, painting on a mirror suspended above her and where she ultimately died. It’s a moving place to visit and one you should plan in advance for as tickets sell out quickly. Before or after your visit here you should walk around the town and stop by the markets as there is both a food focused and arts focused market here to satisfy anyone’s needs. A little further outside of the city are two more very popular attractions in Teotihuacan and Xochimilco. Teotihuacan is the spot for ancient ruins and pyramids and is a busy historical day trip. Xochimilco is the area of the hanging gardens where people can rent boats and float on the winding canals. It’s colorful and filled with roving boats of mariachi bands and vendors selling food and drinks. I’ve kept myself so busy downtown that I haven’t even been able to experience Teotihuacan or Xochimilco quite yet. I’ve barely scratched the surface of what there is to do so naturally, I’ll just have to go back again!

Stay

There are a lot of up and coming neighborhoods in CDMX but I can personally suggest and recommend Condesa and Roma. Polanco is a bit too modern and clean cut for me, but if you’re a little bougie and are planning on eating primarily at places such as Pujol and Quintonil, then this is probably the hood for you. Juarez is right next to Condesa and Roma and has some great looking AirBnbs for a bit lower prices. Coyoacan is outside of the downtown area and is the birthplace (and final resting spot) of Frida Kahlo and an absolutely beautiful town. I would highly recommend staying here if you will be in CDMX for a few days and would like to appreciate a smaller, quieter neighborhood.

While there are many highly recommended boutique hotels in these areas I’ve found that they are small and overpriced. I highly suggest AirBnb as you’ll get an entire apartment for a great price.

Eat

Disclaimer: Mexico City has one of the best eating scenes of anywhere I’ve ever visited. You won’t get to half of the places you want to go and shouldn’t limit yourself to only things you find on the must try lists. I’m once again urging you not to take every one of your meals at a fancy sit down restaurant and to get out and eat some street food. Hail down the tamales guy on the bike with the microphone. You’ll hear him coming!

La Esquina de Chilaquil - It’s a must. Google map "La Güera Tortas de Chilaquiles" for location. On the corner of Alfonso Reyes and Av. Tamaulipas. There will absolutely be a line and you have to go early-ish as they sell out by early afternoon. Incredible chilaquile tortas. Choice of shredded chicken or milanese and either red or green chilaquiles. I went milanese and verde chilaquiles with whatever else they put on top and it was hands down the best thing I ate in CDMX. (Did this on both trips, was not disappointed!)

Jenny’s Street Quesadillas - Exactly what is says. Quesadillas on the street. Get one of the women’s attention, order something to go in your quesadilla, wait a couple minutes for them to hand it to you, devour, order another one (probably), and pay afterwards. So good.

Meroma - Higher end but very affordable. Good pastas. On the same block as MAIA Gallery and Blanco Colima. Good but I would prioritize somewhere else before this.

Lardo - Trendy spot for coffee and pastries in the AM. They bring over the whole pastry plate and let you pick from it. Cute, well designed, quick stop. Love trying the pastries, fresh juice and coffee. Have been here MANY times.

Contramar (or Entremar, their sister restaurant that has the same menu) - Seafood focused. Awesome ceviche. Large and busy, make reservations. Supposedly the thing to order is the full fish with red and green sauce but I couldn't talk my friend into it. I saw it and it looked so delicious.

Churrería El Moro - Chain churros spot with trendy aesthetics (painted tiles). The churros were pretty damn good. I think the caramel dip is my fav but you have to try chocolate.

El Califa - Decent tacos and late night eats. Also next to El Farolito, a similar spot. So would be easy to hit both for a mini taco tour.

El Tizoncito - Claims to be the first tacos al pastor spot. They are super small, but very good. So you can order a few if you're pretty hungry. They give you a salsa tour with a bunch of different dips and salsas on it when you sit. Seems a little like a chain but it was good.

Hotel Carlota - Good food. Cool semi-al fresco dining inside a hip hotel.

Parking garage rooftop bar - Of course I can't find the name of this place. We also couldn't find it forever because it's on top of a parking garage and you have to walk down the garage to get in. We also couldn't get inside without a reservation but some nice guy behind us brought us in with him. Worth it if you can figure out where this place is and make a reservation. I heard they don't want a ton of foreigners but oh well, we got in. It was super scene-y and cool. It’s next to a rec center with a pool in it and I think it was next to the Av. Paseo de la Reforma. Good luck!

Quintonil - Rated one of the best restaurants in the world a few years in a row. You get one of the best tasting menus in the world for a fraction of the price of one in the states. Glad I hit it but don't need to go back unless it was a special occasion.

Mercado Roma - Cute mini-food hall. There is a Churrería El Moro (churros) spot here. Quite a few different, interesting stalls.

Hotel Condesa df - Super trendy hotel with lobby bar and restaurant upstairs. Was woefully unimpressed with the service here. It was painful. Decent food but doubt I would come back unless I was craving sushi.

Ojo de Aqua - A small juice bar on the right, a sit down cafe on the left. Healthy options and lots of fresh fruit and juice.

Places I did not go but were recommended to me:

Lalo! - Highly recommended by many, especially for breakfast/brunch.

Pujol - A must. Good luck with reservations. We did not have luck with the waitlists. Although I have heard mixed reviews. The taco tasting seems to also be paired with a drink per course so I think you would probably leave drunk.

Rosetta - Upscale Italian, very highly recommended, same chef as Lardo and Panaderia Rosetta

Panaderia Rosetta - Cafe, bakery

Cicatriz Cafe - Trendy cafe, natural wine and cocktails

Taqueria Los Cocuyos - Very popular taco stand

Fonda Mayora - Mexican

Parián Condesa Rest Comida - Modern

Tacos Los Gueros - Tacos, a couple locations, open late

El Vilsito - Auto body shop during the day, some of the best tacos al pastor at night

Tacqueria El Greco - Tiny taco joint, uses pita bread as taco shells

El Pescadito Roma - Seafood

El Hidalguense - Mexican

Dulceria de Celaya - Old school Mexican sweets

Torteria Colima - Mexican, the restaurant in front of Jenny’s Street Quesadillas

Havre 77 - French

Maximo Bistrot - French Mexican

Eno Petrarca - Mexican

Chiquitito Cafe - Coffee, cafe

Loose Blues - Hybrid restaurant, clothing, art, and record store

Maque - Bakery

Coyoacan:

Quesadillas Lucha (Coyoacan) - A counter in the Coyoacan market. Awesome tacos. Filled with locals.

San Angel Inn (Near  Coyoacan) - A little overrated in my opinion but sitting outside after a whirlwind Coyoacan tour was nice. Supposedly the chicken tortilla soup is incredible but you can only order at the fancier sit down area inside. They're also known for margaritas (maybe a claim for first ever?) and they were good.

Hêrmann-Thômas Coffee Masters (Coyoacan) - A really nice coffee shop in Coyoacan where we hung out after the Frida Kahlo Museum and Coyoacan Market.

Drink

Licorera Limantour - I went to the one in Roma. There is another in Polanco. One of the "World's Best Bars". Seemed like a typical high end NYC mixologist kind of bar. I am also a bit salty because they randomly took us to the upstairs area where there was a "Miracle" Christmas bar pop up.

Blanco Colima - Very cool old mansion. Trendy and upscale spot for drinks with a few different rooms and a killer open air space in the middle. We were brought here for mezcal tasting after our street art tour. On the same block as Meroma and MAIA Gallery. Went back for drinks on my second trip and enjoyed it. Think it turns clubby late night but not sure. Very good spot for a day drink.

Jules Basement

La Clandestina

Buna 42 - coffee

Hanky Panky Bar

El Balcón del Zócalo - good views of the main square in the historic section

Xaman Bar

Fifty Mils

Tokyo Music Bar

Baltra Bar

Do

Luis Barragan House - Former home and studio of Pritzker-Prize winning architect Luis Barragan. Insane architecture, colors, fountains, pools etc. Instagram dream. He has a few places you can visit but you must make reservations for tickets in advance.

MAIA Contemporary Gallery - Small contemporary art gallery in Roma that is associated with a lot of street art. They were hosting a great neon art exhibit while I was there. Great to pop in if you're close by.

La Ciudadela - The best market for souvenirs. Big and broad. The most unique thing I bought were hand blown cocktail stirrers. They had thousands of styles and sizes. I regret not going to this market sooner in my trip.

Museo Franz Mayer - Mexican arts in a very historic building.

Museo Jumex - CDMX's verison of a MOMA for art and photography.

Museo Soumaya - Directly next to Museo Jumex, free to enter. Supposedly has a lot of Dalí and Rodin.

Plaza Garibaldi - Mariachi band plaza. Supposedly there are tons the gather and play every night. Was recommended multiple times to take an Uber here as the surrounding neighborhood was rough

Templo Mayer - Ruins. historic, open 9-5. Centerpiece of Tenochtitlan, the ancient Aztec capital. Built in 1325 in the marshes of Lake Tezcoco

Palacio Nacional - Govt building which is home to Diego Rivera's famous mural "The History of Mexico" which showcases the history of the nation

Parque México - Great park that was formed in the center of an old horse track. Surrounded by the pretty buildings of Condesa. Tons of people hang out here. Huge dog park and often a lot of adoption agencies with dogs out so needless to say, dog heaven. I have hung out here a bunch and love it.

Parque Juan Rulfo - I think this is the right spot...It's between a small food market on your way between Condesa and Roma, and on the other side is a small flea market with more authentic stands that the bigger touristy markets. The food market seemed like it was there every day, but I only saw the flea market on the weekend.

Lucha Libre - Classic masked Mexican wrestling. Super kitschy. Main night is Friday but there are other shows. I never did learn the best way to buy tix. There are some at the gate but it has the potential to sell out. No bags allowed inside, take Ubers as the surrounding neighborhood is rough. Supposedly not much food inside. Gigantic beers.

Plaza de Constitution - Huge plaza where many people gather.

Torre Latinoamericana - Tallest building in the city with 360-degree views

Outside of CDMX proper:

Teotihuacan - Ancient pyramids in the Valley of Mexico. It’s a day trip and you should leave early AM to be back in the city by midday. It also gets very hot so going in the morning is preferred. Wear sensible shoes and clothes as you could be doing a bit of climbing up the ruins.

Frida Kahlo Museum aka Casa Azul (Coyoacan)- Buy tix in advance!! Incredibly moving for Frida Kahlo fans. Her ashes are on display in her bedroom which is where she passed away. Gorgeous architecture and gardens.

Coyoacan Market (Coyoacan) - Incredible food market. Lots of counters to eat at.

Experimental Ceramics workshop (Coyoacan) - Well known ceramics shop that supplies a lot of NYC restaurants. Good place to buy interesting pieces.

Mexican Craft Market (Coyoacan) - In Coyoacan across from the park. It was okay. Definitely worth a browse through.

Deigo and Frida Museum and Studio (San Angel) - Gorgeous architecture. Mostly art from other artists. A little out of the way. Unless I had a lot of free time I wouldn't make this a must-do.

Xochimilco - 40 mins south of city. Hanging gardens boat ride, was told to eat at Casa Badiano de la Cruz, supposedly A LOT of fun.

Museo Dolores Olmedo - Near Xochimilco. Largest collection of Frida Kahlo and Diego Luna pieces.

Street Art Tour - https://www.airbnb.com/experiences/198969?location=Mexico%20City%2C%20Mexico&source=p2&currentTab=experience_tab&searchId=74118a20-33bf-464d-a34e-e93aa29af940&federatedSearchId=406843e0-2f85-460e-9066-c8540f2bf095&sectionId=bb5709d8-4359-4e82-bf87-d19a90302642

The Look

City smart. Dress for the neighborhood or the activity. Condesa and Roma Norte are artsy and trendy. Polanco is kind of business casual and upscale. Most other areas are typical city dress. Men almost always wear pants. Women are are relatively modest but do wear tight clothing.

Here's an idea of what to buy and pack for Mexico City:

Medellín Travel Guide

Medellin is a huge city enveloped in a valley of the Aburra mountains. Looking out from the windows of the pristine metro at the brown dots of houses peeking out behind concrete towers and fading into the haze of the mountains was a dreamy sight. The history of Medellin, while long, is dominated by the relatively recent events of political upheaval, community rebellion, and most of all, drug trafficking and gang creation. While we usually travel to places where the most influential history is centuries or millenniums past, the events of Medellin’s predominate history is decades old and happened during our lifetimes. Because of that you will hear and see different sides and opinions of what happened, but one thing is clear, is that Medellin is no longer the most dangerous place in the world, and grew past that statistic quickly. It’s a bustling city full of people who have pulled themselves up through hardship and are eager to take in travelers and visitors to show them what they’ve become.

Stay

El Poblado is an upscale and friendly area which is very popular with tourists. If I had more time to research I would have looked into other areas (such as Laureles) but for a quick trip and not much planning beforehand, I was happy in El Poblado. It’s walkable (although there are some hills) and has many bars and restaurants to hit. It’s also close to a metro station so it’s easy to explore other areas.

574 Hotel - Where I stayed, off the beaten path in a quiet neighborhood, minimalistic decor but stylish and chic, small outdoor cafe for breakfast, close to the train station, your taxi driver will have a hard time finding it.

Charlee Lifestyle Hotel - Right in the thick of the touristy square area, has a decent rooftop, pretty rooms, and nice amenities.

The Art Hotel - Trendy, dark, industrial, reviews seem to mention how loud it is quite often, good location in the touristy area.

IMG_9681.jpg

Eat/Drink

Carmen - pre fixe or a la carte, inventive dishes and drinks, love the cocktail menu, the ceviche was delicious. There is one in Cartagena as well but I liked the aesthetics of this one better.

OCI.mde - Al fresco, big tables, great dishes and drinks, in a quiet, upscale part of El Poblado.

Cerveceria Libre - Small brewery with house beers and a few others on tap, super friendly, in a very industrial area, gives you unlimited little snacks while you sit.

Mercado del Rio - An indoor market reminiscent of popular set ups in cities around the world. You can get everything from sushi to paella to pizza. The downstairs bar got very busy around 5:30pm.

3 Cordilleras - Large brewery in the industrial area with house beers and a few others on tap.

Pergamino - Popular, small, locally owned coffee in Medellin.

El Botanico - Large, open, beautiful space. Go for drinks before OCI.mde.

Mondongo’s - Very popular, and not just among tourists, for typical Colombian food.

Do

Real City Tour - a free tour of downtown with a lively and informative guide. A great way to see the city and learn more about it’s history.

Comuna 13 Tour - a tour of what used to be the most dangerous place in the world. This neighborhood is transforming with street art, accessibility, and community programs. I suggest a private tour over a group.

Coffee Tour - Go into the mountains and check out where the beans are being harvested. Colombia is the 2nd largest exporter of coffee beans.

Plaza San Antonio - A large square where a terrorist attack hit and ruined a Botero statue. It’s iconic of the change happening in the city but it’s recommended not to go alone as our guide warned of continuing violence and petty crimes in the area.

Antioquia Museum - A good sized museum with a lot of Fernando Botero, including his own personal collection from other artists. He essentially funded and donated enough to create this museum. About 50% contemporary/modern art.

Plaza Botero - A huge plaza with 23 large sculptures from Fernando Botero. A great spot to sit down and relax in the middle of the craziness of the downtown.

Botanical Garden - Beauty in the middle of the city

Pueblito Paisa

Museo Arte Moderno Medellin - As the name suggests.

Lleras Park - A small park in the middle of the touristy section of El Poblado. A good place to people watch.

Ride metro - Seriously, get out and ride the metro. It’ll take you everywhere, it’s cheap, it’s immaculate, and it’s essentially Medellin’s pride and joy.

The Look

City smart. Hip. A little sexy. Jackets and scarves for nighttime. Black is okay.

Safety

It was home to the most dangerous place in the world at one point, but much has changed here. Still, locals wear their backpacks on the front of their bodies and you will be warned about pickpockets. El Centro, the downtown area, is bustling during the day time but becomes a bit more sketchy and elusive at night, so you are warned against loitering there. San Antonio Plaza, the site of a terrorist bombing in 1995, is a must-see because of the Birds of Peace, but is also said to be a relatively unsafe spot even out in the open. If you stick to the high traffic areas and are mindful about your surroundings and belongings, I don’t think you have much to worry about. If you want to venture into the outskirts and outer neighborhoods it may be best to bring a guide.

Cartagena Travel Guide

Cartagena is color, Color, COLOR. It’s a picturesque port city with heavy tropical, Caribbean, and colonial influences. The people were happy and energetic. The walls of the buildings were vibrant, electric, and often covered in art and bougainvillea. Every corner you turn has your eyes darting from one shade to the next. The brightly painted walls with plants and greens and palms scattered along the outlines of the buildings had me demanding to stop for pictures at practically every corner. From triangle banners to umbrellas, there were often things strung across the smaller streets and alleyways swaying in the thankfully often found breeze. And it’s hot as hell.

Stay

There are two areas where you should stay. The old, walled city and Getsemani. The old, walled city is the main tourist area. It’s safe, it’s loud, it’s packed with people, and it’s where 98% of the street vendors are. Getsemani was described to me as the “hipster” neighborhood and a bit more rough, but I found it to a be much more charming area than what I was expecting. There is far more street art and brightly colored buildings here than the walled city which adds to the visual allure.  I never found myself feeling unsafe and Carrera 10 is a VERY lively strip at night. It’s quieter (away from Carrera 10) and there are barely any street vendors. Another area which you’ll see in your searches and can’t miss once you’re there is Bocagrande. I did not enter this area but it was described as catering heavily towards tourists and includes many hotels and malls. From the look of all of the glass high-rises and what I say online, it reminded me of Miami without the personality. After staying in and experiencing both areas, I prefer to stay in Getsemani as you can easily walk to the old city.

Eat/Drink

Maria - trendy, hip aesthetic, group for groups if you can get the resy, shareable plates.

Carmen - pre fixe or a la carte, inventive dishes and drinks, love the cocktail menu, the ceviche was delicious. There is one in Medellin as well and I like the aesthetics of that one better.

Alma - Upscale, big courtyard, connected to Casa San Augstin, huge goblets of gin drinks, live music.

Demente - Tapas bar with a big courtyard.

Maria Bonita Taqueria Cantina - Small taco spot with tons of mexican inspired art.

Alquimico - 3 story inventive cocktail bar. 1st floor is mainly cocktails created by the bartenders. 2nd floor is more traditional drinks with a pool table and overlooks the 1st floor bar. Rooftop is tropical inspired cocktails and aesthetics. Service was much more attentive downstairs than the rooftop but the drinks were good everywhere.

La Cevicheria - Big portions of many different types of ceviche. There will be a wait so go early or go late.

Colombitalia Arepas - This place is always packed. Delicious and cheap arepas.

Malanga Cafe and Bar - Good local food with a cute rooftop.

Cafe Stepping Stone - No frills spot with great breakfast.

Cafe Havana - touristy spot for dancing.

Di Silvio Trattoria - Italian in Colombia? Italian in Colombia.

Cafe del Mural - homey coffee shop

La Mulata - large plates of seafood with fish soup to start

Townhouse - hip hotel with a sceney rooftop

El Coro Lounge and Bar - upscale bar and lounge connected to the Sofitel

La Vitrola - Cuban inspired with Colombia food, supposedly one of the best restaurants in Cartagena, try to get a reservation through your concierge.

Santa Isabel FT - An open area with about 10 food trucks and a good place to watch the sun set


Do

Street art - It’s everywhere in Getsemani and you can’t miss it, but take an organized tour to learn the stories behind the pieces.

Gold museum - History of the pre-Colombian people, their art, and gold. It’s small, free, and air-conditioned.

Candy stands - Under the roof across from Plaza del Reloj there are a bunch of stands with candy and sweets. Try a bunch.

Walk the walls - The perimeter of the old city is enclosed by large stone walls that you can walk along. You can get off and on the wall from many spots. It’s the best about an hour before the sun sets and you can grab some beers beforehand or buy them from vendors, sit and watch the sun go down.

Beach day trip - Tierra Bomba, Isla del Rosario, Playa Blanca...there are so many spots to go for day trips. I highly recommend Isla del Rosario as it’s far from the city and the water is truly clear. The other spots are pretty busy and aren’t the Caribbean blue waters you are expecting.

Bazurto Market - a high energy, bustling food market. It’s advised to go with a guide here.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas - a large fort that saw many invasions to the port city.

Volcano de Lodo El Totumo - a volcano you can climb into and take mud baths. It’s a day trip.

Shop

Casa Chiqui - A well traveled Colombian socialite stocks this boutique with her best finds. Fabulous luxe and extra.

Emeralds - 70-90% of the world’s emeralds come from Colombia!

Gold - There’s a museum dedicated to it and a lot of the gold jewelry is inspired by pre-Colombian designs.

St. Dom - Boutique and concept store

Loto del Sur - Colombian beauty brand with fab smelling scents

Mochila Bags - Super colorful, strappy boho-style bags perfect for the beach. Originally made by the Indigenous Wayuu people of Colombia, but they’re all over the streets.

Straw hats and bags - They’re everywhere. Look around and find a style you like and haggle like hell for it.

Abaco Bookshop and Cafe - A beautiful book shop.

The Look

Tropical. Boho. Flowy. Crop Tops. Sandals. Bright Colors and Prints. Dresses. Breathable.

Shop the look below:


The Rosario Islands Travel Guide

Islas Del Rosario, (the Rosario Islands) are an archipelago named after rosary beads as they are said dot the ocean in a similar pattern. They are were established as a national park in the 80’s to protect the coral reefs, sea grass, and surrounding marine life which allowed the clear water to give way to incredible snorkeling, diving, and views from above. I saw everything from vibrant Parrotfish, to a cheeky octopus, a huge sea urchin, and a sunken plane all through my snorkel mask. There is an oceanarium for those more inclined to have the sea creatures brought to them and from a distance you can see dozens of pelicans and large birds circling the area throughout the day. An enchanted lagoon promises to glow with bioluminescent plankton, but we couldn’t see the reaction in the moonlight. Since it’s such a short trip from Cartagena, you would be remiss to opt out of going to the Rosario Islands and missing a slice of the Caribbean beach life for at least a day (try to stay at least a night!).

It was told to me, from one of the resort proprietors that when the government took over the islands in the 80’s that the only people permitted to keep their houses or keep living there were those that had been there prior to the 70’s. Another resort proprietor told me that the locals are permitted to “take” any piece of land they want and build on it, while outsiders who want to build must do so in conjunction with the locals. His mother-in-law was the owner of the land he was using. There are many decrepit and abandoned buildings on the islands, and new construction seems scarce, so there must be some truth in it all.

The “downtown” part of Isla Grande is lined with houses in varying degrees of repair and disrepair. A hallow shell of a building sits next to a well stocked bodega. Barefoot teens played on a dirt patch in the center of town with makeshift soccer goals. Young kids played with spinning tops along the streets. There were cock fighting rings, open spaces to dance, and a couple places to buy water, beer, or sundries. I was told many of the people of the town are employed at the resorts and read that many of them are given the opportunity to pursue education, careers, and training through their employers on the island. One of the women working at Isla Del Sol was so excited that I had left my book behind after finishing it because that is how she is improving her English. After she told me that, I realized she was never without a book in her hand. I made sure to spend money in the center of town, as I saw a few tourists simply walk through and gape at the townspeople. I also made it a point to collect all of our unfinished toiletries, a couple articles of clothing I could do without, and some flip flops and left them with some kids in town. Places like this remind me how privileged I am to have the ability to travel. I think it’s incredibly important that we are conscious of the impact our traveling has on the communities we are entering, whether that is the townspeople, the infrastructure, or the marine life.

Stay

Isla Grande is the largest island (grande, duh) of the Rosarios and has the most going on. I recommend staying here unless you don’t care about doing much else but lounging. The smaller, private islands are great for blissing out and forgetting about the rest of the world.

Coralina Island

Small resort on a small island. Great snorkeling right off the docks. The bungalow over the water is incredible.

Isla del Sol

Nice pool, lots of places to lounge, has a big day tripper crowd, close to the downtown of Isla Grande, close to a snorkeling site right at the tip of the alcove where this resort sits.

Hotel San Pedro de Majagua

Luxe, gorgeous aesthetic, not much of a beach, rent SUP boards on site.

Gente de Mar Resort

Large property, beautiful outdoor kitchen, lots of sculptures on site.

Rent your own island

Seriously, if you’re going with a group or you have extra cash to burn, check out AirBnb and book your own island. Yes, please.

Eat/Drink

At your resort. You’ve probably already paid for it.

If you choose to go to another resort, it would be best to call ahead and order or give them a heads up. Every place planned the cooking in advance and you might have to wait a bit if you show up unannounced.

You can get some bites and snacks at the bodegas and spots connected to people’s homes.

Do

Snorkel - I can’t even begin to explain how great the snorkeling was here.

SCUBA dive - If you’re certified, take it up a notch and go diving to get up close and personal with the reefs.

Aquarium - Also called the “Oceanario”. Pelicans and other birds flew above the island where this was all day long, so there must be some goodies there.

Kayak - Do this in the AM. Once the wind picks up you’re going to be in for a fight against the waves.

Go into town

Enchanted Lagoon - your resort can take you here or you can walk over if you’re on the western end of the island. I think it’s best when the moon isn’t out. We didn’t see much except for a hint of white around people’s flailing arms.

Boat tour - chill out and cruise around. If you’re a baller, rent a yacht.

Watch the sunset - find a spot and bring some beers.

Bar hop - you can hop between resort bars or the local bars and bodegas.

Pablo Escobar’s Mansion - enter if you dare (with some pesos just in case) or snorkel around the sunken plane out front.

Shop

Don’t. Prices are inflated on the island and there isn’t much if anything other than essentials to buy anyway. Guys will come around or post up at the resorts with beautiful jewelry (strands of pearls, beaded bracelets) so that might be a good souvenir if you’re looking for one.

Bring:

Bug spray - it can be a bit buggy at times when you’re away from the water

Sunscreen - look for a reef-safe brand that won’t affect the coral

Towel and/or beach blanket - the resorts give you 1 beach towel a day. Not enough IMO.

Hard soled shoes/flops for town - Wear something more substantial than flimsy flip flops if you’re going to adventure around. There is a lot of broken glass. Granted the townspeople walk around barefoot but they probably have some strong calluses that your pre-vacation pedicured feet do not.

Dog treats/food - there are tons of stray dogs. If you want them to never leave your side, feed them.

Extra hotel toiletries - Collect the hotel toiletries from where you stay beforehand and drop them off with someone in town. I think they’ll appreciate it.

Anything you think a townsperson could use - Kids played with top spinners made from string and a bottlecap. If you are an altruistic person you may want to bring some small things that underprivileged people/kids may need/like. I took a few things from my suitcase that I could do without (flip flops, a cotton romper, a bathing suit top, a book) and gave them away. Use your own discretion here on whether you think this is appropriate.

The Look:

Island goddess. Swimsuits galore. Wraps and coverups. Flip flops or bare feet, unless you’re walking into town or exploring (lots of broken glass). Flowy. Boho. Don’t go fancy. Lots of sunscreen. No makeup. Air dried hair and beach waves.