Medellín Travel Guide

Medellin is a huge city enveloped in a valley of the Aburra mountains. Looking out from the windows of the pristine metro at the brown dots of houses peeking out behind concrete towers and fading into the haze of the mountains was a dreamy sight. The history of Medellin, while long, is dominated by the relatively recent events of political upheaval, community rebellion, and most of all, drug trafficking and gang creation. While we usually travel to places where the most influential history is centuries or millenniums past, the events of Medellin’s predominate history is decades old and happened during our lifetimes. Because of that you will hear and see different sides and opinions of what happened, but one thing is clear, is that Medellin is no longer the most dangerous place in the world, and grew past that statistic quickly. It’s a bustling city full of people who have pulled themselves up through hardship and are eager to take in travelers and visitors to show them what they’ve become.

Stay

El Poblado is an upscale and friendly area which is very popular with tourists. If I had more time to research I would have looked into other areas (such as Laureles) but for a quick trip and not much planning beforehand, I was happy in El Poblado. It’s walkable (although there are some hills) and has many bars and restaurants to hit. It’s also close to a metro station so it’s easy to explore other areas.

574 Hotel - Where I stayed, off the beaten path in a quiet neighborhood, minimalistic decor but stylish and chic, small outdoor cafe for breakfast, close to the train station, your taxi driver will have a hard time finding it.

Charlee Lifestyle Hotel - Right in the thick of the touristy square area, has a decent rooftop, pretty rooms, and nice amenities.

The Art Hotel - Trendy, dark, industrial, reviews seem to mention how loud it is quite often, good location in the touristy area.

Eat/Drink

Carmen - pre fixe or a la carte, inventive dishes and drinks, love the cocktail menu, the ceviche was delicious. There is one in Cartagena as well but I liked the aesthetics of this one better.

OCI.mde - Al fresco, big tables, great dishes and drinks, in a quiet, upscale part of El Poblado.

Cerveceria Libre - Small brewery with house beers and a few others on tap, super friendly, in a very industrial area, gives you unlimited little snacks while you sit.

Mercado del Rio - An indoor market reminiscent of popular set ups in cities around the world. You can get everything from sushi to paella to pizza. The downstairs bar got very busy around 5:30pm.

3 Cordilleras - Large brewery in the industrial area with house beers and a few others on tap.

Pergamino - Popular, small, locally owned coffee in Medellin.

El Botanico - Large, open, beautiful space. Go for drinks before OCI.mde.

Mondongo’s - Very popular, and not just among tourists, for typical Colombian food.

Do

Real City Tour - a free tour of downtown with a lively and informative guide. A great way to see the city and learn more about it’s history.

Comuna 13 Tour - a tour of what used to be the most dangerous place in the world. This neighborhood is transforming with street art, accessibility, and community programs. I suggest a private tour over a group.

Coffee Tour - Go into the mountains and check out where the beans are being harvested. Colombia is the 2nd largest exporter of coffee beans.

Plaza San Antonio - A large square where a terrorist attack hit and ruined a Botero statue. It’s iconic of the change happening in the city but it’s recommended not to go alone as our guide warned of continuing violence and petty crimes in the area.

Antioquia Museum - A good sized museum with a lot of Fernando Botero, including his own personal collection from other artists. He essentially funded and donated enough to create this museum. About 50% contemporary/modern art.

Plaza Botero - A huge plaza with 23 large sculptures from Fernando Botero. A great spot to sit down and relax in the middle of the craziness of the downtown.

Botanical Garden - Beauty in the middle of the city

Pueblito Paisa

Museo Arte Moderno Medellin - As the name suggests.

Lleras Park - A small park in the middle of the touristy section of El Poblado. A good place to people watch.

Ride metro - Seriously, get out and ride the metro. It’ll take you everywhere, it’s cheap, it’s immaculate, and it’s essentially Medellin’s pride and joy.

The Look

City smart. Hip. A little sexy. Jackets and scarves for nighttime. Black is okay.

Safety

It was home to the most dangerous place in the world at one point, but much has changed here. Still, locals wear their backpacks on the front of their bodies and you will be warned about pickpockets. El Centro, the downtown area, is bustling during the day time but becomes a bit more sketchy and elusive at night, so you are warned against loitering there. San Antonio Plaza, the site of a terrorist bombing in 1995, is a must-see because of the Birds of Peace, but is also said to be a relatively unsafe spot even out in the open. If you stick to the high traffic areas and are mindful about your surroundings and belongings, I don’t think you have much to worry about. If you want to venture into the outskirts and outer neighborhoods it may be best to bring a guide.

Cartagena Travel Guide

Cartagena is color, Color, COLOR. It’s a picturesque port city with heavy tropical, Caribbean, and colonial influences. The people were happy and energetic. The walls of the buildings were vibrant, electric, and often covered in art and bougainvillea. Every corner you turn has your eyes darting from one shade to the next. The brightly painted walls with plants and greens and palms scattered along the outlines of the buildings had me demanding to stop for pictures at practically every corner. From triangle banners to umbrellas, there were often things strung across the smaller streets and alleyways swaying in the thankfully often found breeze. And it’s hot as hell.

Stay

There are two areas where you should stay. The old, walled city and Getsemani. The old, walled city is the main tourist area. It’s safe, it’s loud, it’s packed with people, and it’s where 98% of the street vendors are. Getsemani was described to me as the “hipster” neighborhood and a bit more rough, but I found it to a be much more charming area than what I was expecting. There is far more street art and brightly colored buildings here than the walled city which adds to the visual allure.  I never found myself feeling unsafe and Carrera 10 is a VERY lively strip at night. It’s quieter (away from Carrera 10) and there are barely any street vendors. Another area which you’ll see in your searches and can’t miss once you’re there is Bocagrande. I did not enter this area but it was described as catering heavily towards tourists and includes many hotels and malls. From the look of all of the glass high-rises and what I say online, it reminded me of Miami without the personality. After staying in and experiencing both areas, I prefer to stay in Getsemani as you can easily walk to the old city.

Eat/Drink

Maria - trendy, hip aesthetic, group for groups if you can get the resy, shareable plates.

Carmen - pre fixe or a la carte, inventive dishes and drinks, love the cocktail menu, the ceviche was delicious. There is one in Medellin as well and I like the aesthetics of that one better.

Alma - Upscale, big courtyard, connected to Casa San Augstin, huge goblets of gin drinks, live music.

Demente - Tapas bar with a big courtyard.

Maria Bonita Taqueria Cantina - Small taco spot with tons of mexican inspired art.

Alquimico - 3 story inventive cocktail bar. 1st floor is mainly cocktails created by the bartenders. 2nd floor is more traditional drinks with a pool table and overlooks the 1st floor bar. Rooftop is tropical inspired cocktails and aesthetics. Service was much more attentive downstairs than the rooftop but the drinks were good everywhere.

La Cevicheria - Big portions of many different types of ceviche. There will be a wait so go early or go late.

Colombitalia Arepas - This place is always packed. Delicious and cheap arepas.

Malanga Cafe and Bar - Good local food with a cute rooftop.

Cafe Stepping Stone - No frills spot with great breakfast.

Cafe Havana - touristy spot for dancing.

Di Silvio Trattoria - Italian in Colombia? Italian in Colombia.

Cafe del Mural - homey coffee shop

La Mulata - large plates of seafood with fish soup to start

Townhouse - hip hotel with a sceney rooftop

El Coro Lounge and Bar - upscale bar and lounge connected to the Sofitel

La Vitrola - Cuban inspired with Colombia food, supposedly one of the best restaurants in Cartagena, try to get a reservation through your concierge.

Santa Isabel FT - An open area with about 10 food trucks and a good place to watch the sun set

Do

Street art - It’s everywhere in Getsemani and you can’t miss it, but take an organized tour to learn the stories behind the pieces.

Gold museum - History of the pre-Colombian people, their art, and gold. It’s small, free, and air-conditioned.

Candy stands - Under the roof across from Plaza del Reloj there are a bunch of stands with candy and sweets. Try a bunch.

Walk the walls - The perimeter of the old city is enclosed by large stone walls that you can walk along. You can get off and on the wall from many spots. It’s the best about an hour before the sun sets and you can grab some beers beforehand or buy them from vendors, sit and watch the sun go down.

Beach day trip - Tierra Bomba, Isla del Rosario, Playa Blanca...there are so many spots to go for day trips. I highly recommend Isla del Rosario as it’s far from the city and the water is truly clear. The other spots are pretty busy and aren’t the Caribbean blue waters you are expecting.

Bazurto Market - a high energy, bustling food market. It’s advised to go with a guide here.

Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas - a large fort that saw many invasions to the port city.

Volcano de Lodo El Totumo - a volcano you can climb into and take mud baths. It’s a day trip.

Shop

Casa Chiqui - A well traveled Colombian socialite stocks this boutique with her best finds. Fabulous luxe and extra.

Emeralds - 70-90% of the world’s emeralds come from Colombia!

Gold - There’s a museum dedicated to it and a lot of the gold jewelry is inspired by pre-Colombian designs.

St. Dom - Boutique and concept store

Loto del Sur - Colombian beauty brand with fab smelling scents

Mochila Bags - Super colorful, strappy boho-style bags perfect for the beach. Originally made by the Indigenous Wayuu people of Colombia, but they’re all over the streets.

Straw hats and bags - They’re everywhere. Look around and find a style you like and haggle like hell for it.

Abaco Bookshop and Cafe - A beautiful book shop.

The Look

Tropical. Boho. Flowy. Crop Tops. Sandals. Bright Colors and Prints. Dresses. Breathable.

Shop the look below:

The Rosario Islands Travel Guide

Islas Del Rosario, (the Rosario Islands) are an archipelago named after rosary beads as they are said dot the ocean in a similar pattern. They are were established as a national park in the 80’s to protect the coral reefs, sea grass, and surrounding marine life which allowed the clear water to give way to incredible snorkeling, diving, and views from above. I saw everything from vibrant Parrotfish, to a cheeky octopus, a huge sea urchin, and a sunken plane all through my snorkel mask. There is an oceanarium for those more inclined to have the sea creatures brought to them and from a distance you can see dozens of pelicans and large birds circling the area throughout the day. An enchanted lagoon promises to glow with bioluminescent plankton, but we couldn’t see the reaction in the moonlight. Since it’s such a short trip from Cartagena, you would be remiss to opt out of going to the Rosario Islands and missing a slice of the Caribbean beach life for at least a day (try to stay at least a night!).

It was told to me, from one of the resort proprietors that when the government took over the islands in the 80’s that the only people permitted to keep their houses or keep living there were those that had been there prior to the 70’s. Another resort proprietor told me that the locals are permitted to “take” any piece of land they want and build on it, while outsiders who want to build must do so in conjunction with the locals. His mother-in-law was the owner of the land he was using. There are many decrepit and abandoned buildings on the islands, and new construction seems scarce, so there must be some truth in it all.

The “downtown” part of Isla Grande is lined with houses in varying degrees of repair and disrepair. A hallow shell of a building sits next to a well stocked bodega. Barefoot teens played on a dirt patch in the center of town with makeshift soccer goals. Young kids played with spinning tops along the streets. There were cock fighting rings, open spaces to dance, and a couple places to buy water, beer, or sundries. I was told many of the people of the town are employed at the resorts and read that many of them are given the opportunity to pursue education, careers, and training through their employers on the island. One of the women working at Isla Del Sol was so excited that I had left my book behind after finishing it because that is how she is improving her English. After she told me that, I realized she was never without a book in her hand. I made sure to spend money in the center of town, as I saw a few tourists simply walk through and gape at the townspeople. I also made it a point to collect all of our unfinished toiletries, a couple articles of clothing I could do without, and some flip flops and left them with some kids in town. Places like this remind me how privileged I am to have the ability to travel. I think it’s incredibly important that we are conscious of the impact our traveling has on the communities we are entering, whether that is the townspeople, the infrastructure, or the marine life.

Stay

Isla Grande is the largest island (grande, duh) of the Rosarios and has the most going on. I recommend staying here unless you don’t care about doing much else but lounging. The smaller, private islands are great for blissing out and forgetting about the rest of the world.

Coralina Island

Small resort on a small island. Great snorkeling right off the docks. The bungalow over the water is incredible.

Isla del Sol

Nice pool, lots of places to lounge, has a big day tripper crowd, close to the downtown of Isla Grande, close to a snorkeling site right at the tip of the alcove where this resort sits.

Hotel San Pedro de Majagua

Luxe, gorgeous aesthetic, not much of a beach, rent SUP boards on site.

Gente de Mar Resort

Large property, beautiful outdoor kitchen, lots of sculptures on site.

Rent your own island

Seriously, if you’re going with a group or you have extra cash to burn, check out AirBnb and book your own island. Yes, please.

Eat/Drink

At your resort. You’ve probably already paid for it.

If you choose to go to another resort, it would be best to call ahead and order or give them a heads up. Every place planned the cooking in advance and you might have to wait a bit if you show up unannounced.

You can get some bites and snacks at the bodegas and spots connected to people’s homes.

Do

Snorkel - I can’t even begin to explain how great the snorkeling was here.

SCUBA dive - If you’re certified, take it up a notch and go diving to get up close and personal with the reefs.

Aquarium - Also called the “Oceanario”. Pelicans and other birds flew above the island where this was all day long, so there must be some goodies there.

Kayak - Do this in the AM. Once the wind picks up you’re going to be in for a fight against the waves.

Go into town

Enchanted Lagoon - your resort can take you here or you can walk over if you’re on the western end of the island. I think it’s best when the moon isn’t out. We didn’t see much except for a hint of white around people’s flailing arms.

Boat tour - chill out and cruise around. If you’re a baller, rent a yacht.

Watch the sunset - find a spot and bring some beers.

Bar hop - you can hop between resort bars or the local bars and bodegas.

Pablo Escobar’s Mansion - enter if you dare (with some pesos just in case) or snorkel around the sunken plane out front.

Shop

Don’t. Prices are inflated on the island and there isn’t much if anything other than essentials to buy anyway. Guys will come around or post up at the resorts with beautiful jewelry (strands of pearls, beaded bracelets) so that might be a good souvenir if you’re looking for one.

Bring:

Bug spray - it can be a bit buggy at times when you’re away from the water

Sunscreen - look for a reef-safe brand that won’t affect the coral

Towel and/or beach blanket - the resorts give you 1 beach towel a day. Not enough IMO.

Hard soled shoes/flops for town - Wear something more substantial than flimsy flip flops if you’re going to adventure around. There is a lot of broken glass. Granted the townspeople walk around barefoot but they probably have some strong calluses that your pre-vacation pedicured feet do not.

Dog treats/food - there are tons of stray dogs. If you want them to never leave your side, feed them.

Extra hotel toiletries - Collect the hotel toiletries from where you stay beforehand and drop them off with someone in town. I think they’ll appreciate it.

Anything you think a townsperson could use - Kids played with top spinners made from string and a bottlecap. If you are an altruistic person you may want to bring some small things that underprivileged people/kids may need/like. I took a few things from my suitcase that I could do without (flip flops, a cotton romper, a bathing suit top, a book) and gave them away. Use your own discretion here on whether you think this is appropriate.

The Look:

Island goddess. Swimsuits galore. Wraps and coverups. Flip flops or bare feet, unless you’re walking into town or exploring (lots of broken glass). Flowy. Boho. Don’t go fancy. Lots of sunscreen. No makeup. Air dried hair and beach waves.