The Rosario Islands Travel Guide
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Islas Del Rosario, (the Rosario Islands) are an archipelago named after rosary beads as they are said dot the ocean in a similar pattern. They are were established as a national park in the 80’s to protect the coral reefs, sea grass, and surrounding marine life which allowed the clear water to give way to incredible snorkeling, diving, and views from above. I saw everything from vibrant Parrotfish, to a cheeky octopus, a huge sea urchin, and a sunken plane all through my snorkel mask. There is an oceanarium for those more inclined to have the sea creatures brought to them and from a distance you can see dozens of pelicans and large birds circling the area throughout the day. An enchanted lagoon promises to glow with bioluminescent plankton, but we couldn’t see the reaction in the moonlight. Since it’s such a short trip from Cartagena, you would be remiss to opt out of going to the Rosario Islands and missing a slice of the Caribbean beach life for at least a day (try to stay at least a night!).
It was told to me, from one of the resort proprietors that when the government took over the islands in the 80’s that the only people permitted to keep their houses or keep living there were those that had been there prior to the 70’s. Another resort proprietor told me that the locals are permitted to “take” any piece of land they want and build on it, while outsiders who want to build must do so in conjunction with the locals. His mother-in-law was the owner of the land he was using. There are many decrepit and abandoned buildings on the islands, and new construction seems scarce, so there must be some truth in it all.
The “downtown” part of Isla Grande is lined with houses in varying degrees of repair and disrepair. A hallow shell of a building sits next to a well stocked bodega. Barefoot teens played on a dirt patch in the center of town with makeshift soccer goals. Young kids played with spinning tops along the streets. There were cock fighting rings, open spaces to dance, and a couple places to buy water, beer, or sundries. I was told many of the people of the town are employed at the resorts and read that many of them are given the opportunity to pursue education, careers, and training through their employers on the island. One of the women working at Isla Del Sol was so excited that I had left my book behind after finishing it because that is how she is improving her English. After she told me that, I realized she was never without a book in her hand. I made sure to spend money in the center of town, as I saw a few tourists simply walk through and gape at the townspeople. I also made it a point to collect all of our unfinished toiletries, a couple articles of clothing I could do without, and some flip flops and left them with some kids in town. Places like this remind me how privileged I am to have the ability to travel. I think it’s incredibly important that we are conscious of the impact our traveling has on the communities we are entering, whether that is the townspeople, the infrastructure, or the marine life.
Stay
Isla Grande is the largest island (grande, duh) of the Rosarios and has the most going on. I recommend staying here unless you don’t care about doing much else but lounging. The smaller, private islands are great for blissing out and forgetting about the rest of the world.
Small resort on a small island. Great snorkeling right off the docks. The bungalow over the water is incredible.
Nice pool, lots of places to lounge, has a big day tripper crowd, close to the downtown of Isla Grande, close to a snorkeling site right at the tip of the alcove where this resort sits.
Luxe, gorgeous aesthetic, not much of a beach, rent SUP boards on site.
Large property, beautiful outdoor kitchen, lots of sculptures on site.
Rent your own island
Seriously, if you’re going with a group or you have extra cash to burn, check out AirBnb and book your own island. Yes, please.
Eat/Drink
At your resort. You’ve probably already paid for it.
If you choose to go to another resort, it would be best to call ahead and order or give them a heads up. Every place planned the cooking in advance and you might have to wait a bit if you show up unannounced.
You can get some bites and snacks at the bodegas and spots connected to people’s homes.
Do
Snorkel - I can’t even begin to explain how great the snorkeling was here.
SCUBA dive - If you’re certified, take it up a notch and go diving to get up close and personal with the reefs.
Aquarium - Also called the “Oceanario”. Pelicans and other birds flew above the island where this was all day long, so there must be some goodies there.
Kayak - Do this in the AM. Once the wind picks up you’re going to be in for a fight against the waves.
Go into town
Enchanted Lagoon - your resort can take you here or you can walk over if you’re on the western end of the island. I think it’s best when the moon isn’t out. We didn’t see much except for a hint of white around people’s flailing arms.
Boat tour - chill out and cruise around. If you’re a baller, rent a yacht.
Watch the sunset - find a spot and bring some beers.
Bar hop - you can hop between resort bars or the local bars and bodegas.
Pablo Escobar’s Mansion - enter if you dare (with some pesos just in case) or snorkel around the sunken plane out front.
Shop
Don’t. Prices are inflated on the island and there isn’t much if anything other than essentials to buy anyway. Guys will come around or post up at the resorts with beautiful jewelry (strands of pearls, beaded bracelets) so that might be a good souvenir if you’re looking for one.
Bring:
Bug spray - it can be a bit buggy at times when you’re away from the water
Sunscreen - look for a reef-safe brand that won’t affect the coral
Towel and/or beach blanket - the resorts give you 1 beach towel a day. Not enough IMO.
Hard soled shoes/flops for town - Wear something more substantial than flimsy flip flops if you’re going to adventure around. There is a lot of broken glass. Granted the townspeople walk around barefoot but they probably have some strong calluses that your pre-vacation pedicured feet do not.
Dog treats/food - there are tons of stray dogs. If you want them to never leave your side, feed them.
Extra hotel toiletries - Collect the hotel toiletries from where you stay beforehand and drop them off with someone in town. I think they’ll appreciate it.
Anything you think a townsperson could use - Kids played with top spinners made from string and a bottlecap. If you are an altruistic person you may want to bring some small things that underprivileged people/kids may need/like. I took a few things from my suitcase that I could do without (flip flops, a cotton romper, a bathing suit top, a book) and gave them away. Use your own discretion here on whether you think this is appropriate.
The Look:
Island goddess. Swimsuits galore. Wraps and coverups. Flip flops or bare feet, unless you’re walking into town or exploring (lots of broken glass). Flowy. Boho. Don’t go fancy. Lots of sunscreen. No makeup. Air dried hair and beach waves.
